Kitten Care Guide

Before Your Kitten Comes Home

Have these basics ready before pickup or delivery:

• Quiet room or controlled area for the first few days (door, gate, or clear boundary).
• Litter box, unscented clumping litter, and a scoop.
• Two bowls (water and food) — stainless steel or ceramic if possible.
• Cat carrier with a soft, washable towel or blanket.
• Scratching options (horizontal and/or vertical) placed near main traffic areas.
• Safe hideouts — not just under the bed, ideally a box, cubby, or covered bed.

The First 48 Hours

Keep the world small

Your kitten is leaving everything familiar. Start with one room or a limited zone instead of giving access to the
entire house. This reduces stress and makes it easier for them to find litter, food, water, and you.

Let them process on their terms

Expect curiosity and retreat. Sit on the floor, speak quietly, and let the kitten approach you. Avoid flooding
them with new people, loud music, or long handling sessions right away.

Monitor eating, drinking, and litter

Light appetite changes can happen with stress, but your kitten should still eat, drink, and use the litter box
within the first day. If they’re not using the box or not drinking for a full day, call your vet.

Keep the first vet visit within the timeline agreed to in your contract so the health guarantee stays in effect.

Food, Water & Litter

Food

You’ll receive information on what your kitten has been eating here. If you plan to change brands, do it gradually:

• Days 1–3: 75% current food, 25% new food.
• Days 4–6: 50/50 mix.
• Days 7–10: 25% current food, 75% new food.

Water

Fresh water should be available at all times. Some cats prefer fountains, others prefer still water. Offer both if
you can and see what your kitten chooses.

Litter

Start with the type of litter your kitten is already using here. Once they’re settled and reliable with the box,
you can slowly transition if needed. Avoid heavily scented litters — most cats don’t love them.

Socialization & Play

Birmans typically thrive on human contact. The goal is not to exhaust them, but to build predictable, positive
interactions so they trust you and the environment.

• Several short play sessions each day with interactive toys (wands, ribbons, etc.).
• Gentle handling: petting along the back, under the chin, and gradual paw/tail handling.
• Exposure to household sounds at reasonable volume (TV, dishwasher, door, etc.).

For multi-pet homes, introductions should be supervised, slow, and structured — not “open the carrier and hope it
works out.”

Vet Care & Vaccines

Your kitten will leave with a record of vaccinations, deworming, and exams completed here. Bring that record to
your first vet visit and work with your veterinarian to continue the schedule.

• Book the first vet visit within the contract window.
• Discuss spay/neuter timing for pet homes.
• Ask about parasite prevention appropriate for your region and lifestyle.

This guide does not replace veterinary advice. If something feels off, it’s better to call your vet than to wait.

Red Flags — When to Call the Vet

Contact a veterinarian promptly if you notice:

• Persistent vomiting or diarrhea.
• Lethargy that doesn’t improve with rest.
• Labored breathing, coughing, or nasal discharge.
• Refusal to eat or drink for a full day.
• Straining in the litter box with little or no output.

Staying Connected

I’m invested in every kitten I place. If you’re an active CWPX home, you’re not shouting into the void — you can
reach out with questions, updates, or concerns.

Most quick updates are best sent via email or message; anything urgent should go straight to your veterinarian.
For big picture questions about behavior, environment, or future placement, I’m open to a conversation.